Temperature on Your Infrared Heating Resource Hub

Temperature sensor for glass oven

Tue, 28 Jul 2026 03:26:04 +0800

The Struggle with Cold Spots in Glass Tunnel Kilns

Most infrared lamps stop at 1.5 or 2 meters. That sounds like plenty until you’re staring at a massive glass tunnel kiln. When you string those short lamps together, you get these annoying “cold spots” right at the joints. It ruins the consistency of the glass. We figured out a better way. We build custom continuous heating units that push way past that 2-meter mark. The goal is simple: one smooth, steady heat profile across the whole piece of glass. No gaps. No surprises.

Glass bending furnace temperature

Fri, 17 Jul 2026 02:39:40 +0800

Cutting through ultra-thick glass is basically a fight against the material itself. If you try to score thick glass while it’s cold, you’re just punishing your equipment. Your cutting wheels wear out way too fast, and you end up with cracks appearing in places you didn’t intend. It’s frustrating. To fix this, we use shortwave infrared (IR) lamps. Instead of just warming the surface, these lamps actually sink deep into the glass. Here is how it works: we target the exact path where the wheel is about to hit. This creates a little “soft zone” in the glass. When the wheel finally makes contact, it doesn’t have to fight the material—it just glides. This changes everything for your tools. Most cutting wheels die because the friction and pressure simply overwhelm the tungsten carbide. By softening the glass first, you aren’t forcing the tool to do all the heavy lifting. You’ll notice your wheels last much longer. You get way more meters out of a single blade before you have to stop and swap it out. But, there’s a catch. These lamps put out an incredible amount of heat. You can’t just set them up and forget about them. If your positioning is off by even a few millimeters, you risk overheating the surrounding area. That leads to thermal shock, and that’s how you end up with a shattered piece of glass all over your shop floor. The trick is getting the lamp to move in perfect sync with the cutting head. We suggest using a focused beam. It keeps the heat right on the score line, which saves energy and keeps the rest of the plate stable. Just make sure you wire it to a precise PID controller. It stops those random temperature spikes that can ruin a workpiece in a split second.

Laser temperature gun for glass

Sun, 12 Jul 2026 07:12:44 +0800

Dealing with Cold Spots in Glass Annealing

Ever tried annealing a piece with a narrow neck or a really deep base? It’s a headache. You’ve got your kiln running, but those awkward geometries create “dead zones” where the heat just doesn’t reach. You can’t just hope the air in the kiln does the job—it won’t. That’s why we use targeted IR heating lamps. They basically bridge the gap, making sure the whole piece stays at the right temperature, not just the easy-to-reach parts.