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		<title>Distance on Your Infrared Heating Resource Hub</title>
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		<description>Recent content in Distance on Your Infrared Heating Resource Hub</description>
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			<lastBuildDate>Sat, 25 Jul 2026 03:26:45 +0800</lastBuildDate>
		
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				<title>Safety distance for glass heating</title>
				<link>http://ir-heater-hub.com/en/posts/eliminating-thermal-dead-zones-in-glass-annealing-kilns-via-infrared-lamp-positioning/</link>
				<pubDate>Sat, 25 Jul 2026 03:26:45 +0800</pubDate>
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				<description>&lt;p&gt;&lt;img src=&#34;http://ir-heater-hub.com/images/b5cae4636e88247491fa9168385af439.png&#34; alt=&#34;Safety distance for glass heating&#34;&gt;&lt;/p&gt;&#xA;&lt;h1 id=&#34;dealing-with-those-annoying-dead-zones-in-glass-annealing&#34;&gt;Dealing with those annoying &amp;ldquo;dead zones&amp;rdquo; in glass annealing&lt;/h1&gt;&#xA;&lt;p&gt;Ever had a piece of glassware look perfect, only to have it shatter out of nowhere? It’s a nightmare. Usually, it happens because of &amp;ldquo;dead zones.&amp;rdquo;&#xA;When you&amp;rsquo;re working with weird shapes—&lt;a href=&#34;https://goldisgood.com&#34;&gt;think&lt;/a&gt; narrow necks or deep, chunky bases—standard convection heat just doesn&amp;rsquo;t cut it. The heat misses the tight spots. The glass doesn&amp;rsquo;t soak evenly, &lt;a href=&#34;https://o-yate.net&#34;&gt;internal&lt;/a&gt; stress builds up, and then&amp;hellip; &lt;em&gt;crack&lt;/em&gt;.&#xA;We fix this by using targeted short-wave infrared (IR) lamps. Basically, we stop hoping the air carries the heat and just beam it exactly where it needs to go.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;Getting the heat to actually hit the glass&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Here is the thing: you can&amp;rsquo;t just crank the dial to eleven and hope for the best. That&amp;rsquo;s a great way to ruin a piece.&#xA;It&amp;rsquo;s all about the angle. We use a multi-angle array of lamps to essentially &amp;ldquo;wrap&amp;rdquo; the heat around the vessel. Short-wave IR is great because it actually penetrates the glass rather than just bouncing off the surface. It &lt;a href=&#34;https://o-yate.com&#34;&gt;pushes&lt;/a&gt; energy into those deep recesses where air-based heating usually gives up.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;The balancing act: Distance vs. Heat&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;Placement is a bit of a tightrope walk.&#xA;If you put the lamp too close, you get &amp;ldquo;hot spots.&amp;rdquo; The glass can warp or deform before you even realize what happened. But if you push them too far back? You&amp;rsquo;re wasting power and your annealing cycle takes forever.&#xA;We usually figure out the sweet spot by looking at the wattage per centimeter of the lamp. It&amp;rsquo;s all about finding that middle ground where the temperature stays smooth across the whole piece.&#xA;&lt;strong&gt;A few tips for the setup&lt;/strong&gt;&#xA;If you&amp;rsquo;re wiring this up, be careful with your controllers.&#xA;IR lamps are fast. Like, &lt;em&gt;really&lt;/em&gt; fast. Unlike those old resistive elements that take a &lt;a href=&#34;https://henruite.com&#34;&gt;while&lt;/a&gt; to warm up, IR hits the target almost instantly. You&amp;rsquo;ll want a precise PID loop, otherwise, you&amp;rsquo;ll overshoot your temperature and end up with a mess.&#xA;And one last thing—these arrays put out a lot of waste heat. Make sure your kiln&amp;rsquo;s ventilation can handle the extra load, or you&amp;rsquo;re just turning your workshop into a sauna.&lt;/p&gt;</description>
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